History

"I am interested in adding to the information on the recent history (ie within living memory) of Llangadog. In particular, if you, or someone you know, has memories of individuals who live or have lived in the village during the last 100 years or so, or of buildings that have now vanished or changed in their use, or of significant events, I'd love to hear from you. Please contact me via the messageboard, or by email ( message@llangadog.com ), or pop in to see me at the Post Office (Tuesdays, 10.30am to noon)."
Peter Berry

Article by Rhobert ap Steffan about St Cadog in Brittany

Cambria Archaeology have many fascinating pages concerning the archaeology and history of the Llangadog area on their web site. You can view the links to the individual pages by clicking here.

You will find a collection of recollected memories on this website, not an academic thesis. We continue to gather information about the area and the people who have lived here and we welcome any contributions or references you may have.

Mural
An overview of the history of the area can be gleaned in a mural created by local artist Andrew Evans, assisted by pupils of Llangadog School. The mural is to be seen in Llangadog Community Centre and was sponsored by Balchder Bro.

A good description of Llangadog village and the locality is to be found on www.genuki.org.uk (opens in a new window)

Ancient History
Detailed knowledge of evidence concerning the earliest people who lived in the area is to be had from Cambria Archaelogy(www.cambria.org.uk)(opens in a new window). The area is rich with prehistoric sites. The earliest artefact recorded is a flint hand axe from the Paleolithic era (250,000BC – 10,000BC). More noticeable geographically is the evidence of five hillforts in the Llangadog area, the most significant being Garn Goch which can be clearly seen from the A40. There it is possible to walk in the footsteps of our forefathers and look at the same view that they gazed upon.

The Celts and Romans
The Romans settled here just as they did in other places, and evidence of domesticity can be seen on Garregfoelgam farmland named Llys Brychan. The remains of the underfloor heating has been unearthed there. Perhaps members of a mixed Romano-British family were the rulers of the area, or that the Romans settled on land once important at the time of Brychan Brycheiniog. Brychan was the king of Brycheiniog with land stretching down to the Towy.

The remains of Castell Meurig sit above the Common. It was built on an ideal site to protect the ford at Glanrhyd, and one can imagine the wooden castle on its impressive motte and bailey, with its soldiers keeping a close eye on the surrounding area.

The Saints of the Celtic Church
Cadog or Catwg was a fifth or sixth century Abbot, Bishop and Martyr, possibly one of Brychan Brycheiniog’s descendants (some historical notes say that he was the son of Gwynllyw, King of Gwynllywg, whose wife was Gwladys, daughter or granddaughter of St.Brychan, King, Confessor. Brychan’s father Anlac was possibly Captain of one of the Iridsh Goidelic bands who invaded and occupied Carmarthen, Pembroke and Brecknock from time to time.)

He founded Llancarfan Fawr Monastery in the Vale of Glamorgan and a number of churches are to be found in the nearby counties bearing his name. He travelled further afield as well, and St Cadog churches can be found in Cornwall, Brittany and Scotland.
The church was renovated a great deal in 1888-9, but 60% of its fabric remains considerably older. It is one of the oldest in the Diocese of St David’s. It was known as Llangadog Fawr, and there were three Chapels subordinate to it, Llanddeusant, Gwynfe, and Capel Tudyst.

Tudist Ceidrych Lliam (Caesiencyn)
Dewi Cadog, Llain Dyrfal – Teyrnfael (i.e. Saint David’s teacher)
Elli – Gwernellyn
Braenan
Sefi – Hefin
Savinus – (half Welsh) Llansefin
Guto ap Gwynfor makes several propositions about others as well: In ‘Buchedd Samson’, an eighth century script, mention is made of Saint David being educated in Dingat House, Llandovery. Cannon Doble refers to Llanddeusant area, mentioning it as ‘Lle Gwyn’ (Fair Place) – that is, Gwynfe and Gwenllan.
A road from the Comin and past Devannah Farm to the river is called Rhydsaint, in other words, the road taken by saints. Look carefully and you will notice that the hedges of this lane are significantly wider than the road itself: evidence that it was at one time more important than at present.
Caesara – Caesarn (road)
More saints are named in this area than in any other part of Wales.
Rhyw y Dannan – Rhyw Adamnan – Rhuadymôn (author of Buchedd Columba)
Bledru ap Cadifor is mentioned in the twelfth century. His father owned much land in Carmarthenshire. He is buried in Llangadog church. He married a Gwynfe girl and lived in Bethlehem. The old name of Glantowy was Llannerchbledru. Gwyn ap Williams suggests that he was Bledricws Latimer, the interpreter who spoke on behalf of the Welsh with the Normans. It was he that was responsible for recording the Arthurian chivalric literature of the time.

Watcyn Wynn’s Academy
An academy offering training for priests was established in a building in Back Way (later becoming the Church Hall, and now a domestic dwelling). Watcyn Wynn incurred the displeasure of the locals when he made the decision to move the college to Gwynfryn in Ammanford. Indeed, people were furious at the loss of income. A special meeting was held in Queen’s Square during which Watcyn Wynn’s effigy was set alight – to no avail.

The Tythe
Great was the protest against the tythe: Gwynfe church was filled to overflowing with locals and Brynaman colliers who had walked the whole distance over the mountain in order to attend the meeting. For all the discussion, the decision was made to pay the tythe.(William Thomas, Gwynfe). Most of the inhabitants and miners of Brynaman came from Gwynfe and Dyffryn Ceidrych. During the great strike Brynaman survived with the food supplied by the Gwynfe farmers. For many years a daily bus service travelled over the Black Mountain between the two villages since the demand was high. (A link can be heard in the dialects today: verb endings -ws and –odd ar often used within the same sentence – “Rhedws i lawr yr heol a cwympodd e.”

Influential Preachers
David Davies – The Silver Trumpet (his grave is to be found in Bethlehem). It was he who made ‘yr hwyl’ fashionable.
Comprehensive biographies of local ministers were compiled by John Davies, Cardiff.

Murders and Disasters
But not all members of the community were saints; there are reports of murders, with one unfortunate murderer (William Williams 1768) succeeding to escape to France and live there as a teacher. The preacher Rees Thomas Rees (1817) was less fortunate and 10,000 people watched his execution.

More recently a disaster occurred on the railway at Glanrhyd. In 1987 after a weekend of continuous rain and widespread flooding along the Towy Valley, a railway bridge collapsed as the early train was crossing. A coach sank into the swollen river and three passengers and the driver were drowned before they could be rescued.

Social History
George Borrows visited Llangadog area on his journey through Wales. His account of conversations with the people he met on his way past Capel ‘Gwynfa’ are most entertaining.
http://www.red4.co.uk/ebooks/wildwales/chapt98.htm (opens in a new window)

The Gentry
As in all areas, there are the remains of the grand houses of the well-heeled: the Lloyd family of Dan-yr-allt, the Lloyds of Glansevin and Mandinam; the estates of Abermarlais, Glanyannell and Llwyncelyn. (Information in the National Library)

Industry
There is much evidence that the area has been farmed from the Middle Ages: references to corn mills and farmsteads, and the strip field system can be seen by Felindre. Felindre was also given the right to hold an annual fair in 1383.

In such an area it is obvious that farming continues to be the main industry, though many other businesses operate from local farm buildings today. There was a variety of other ways for locals to earn their living: lime quarries and other mines on the Black Mountain, lead and silver mines on Cae Sara land, woollen mills, public houses and shops so that accommodation and victuals could be provided for the inhabitants and drovers who rested here on their way to Gloucester and other midland towns. A number of blacksmiths worked in Cwrtyplas alone in order to prepare cattle and geese for their long journey.

Woollen Mills
Miss Julia Jones recalls many fond memories of her father and the woollen mill that continues to be home for her family. Many examples are still to be had of the blankets that were woven at the mill.

Another mill is to be seen by the Three Horseshoes, but the patterns woven and the width of the blankets are different there.

There are a number of other mills in the area, but wool was not the only produce. For example, Glansevin Mill was chiefly for grinding corn. Brân Mill was adapted to produce electricity.

Shops and Public Houses
Practically every building near the village centre was a shop or a hostelry at the start of the last century. Some post cards and recollections of the oldest inhabitants are proof of this, and at the time of the drovers there was a demand for all these businesses. Since the 1950’s there is mention of a dozen public houses still operating. In 1985 six were still opening their doors each night – The Red Lion, Plough, Castle, Black Lion, Carpenters and Telegraph. Although one or two have been closed for short periods since then, all remain in business but for the Plough.

Market Day
A market used to be held for farmers on Tuesdays until quite recently, and two banks, Barclays and National Westminster, were open, the former in a small building that is now part of the Carpenters Arms, and the latter in the Morgan family’s front room (Paper Shop and Post Office); locals used to queue along the hallway before crossing the threshold and completing their financial business. Fairs were held frequently throughout the year, and their dates were published in agricultural diaries.

The Cobbler’s Trade
At the turn of the twentieth century there were two cobblers here (one shop is now part of the Carpenters’ Arms, and the other was in Leicester House). Dennis Edwards, the last cobbler, died in April 2005. He was a kindly, cultured individual, involved in all things poetic and musical. There are pictures of him as a child and in his workshop on the Historical Photos page.

He used to cycle up to Llanddeusant to work when he was young; how there was at least a dozen cobblers helping his father in the workshops of Leicester House making hobnailed boots for local farmers. The more recent demand was for repairs, but a number of old friends would call by the workshop for a chat or to discuss poetry with the old cobbler who was always so ready to greet everyone.

His father, David Tom, was the oldest of 15 children; his father was the keeper of Dolau Cothi estate; his mother, Margaret, was the daughter of David Lloyd, the smithy at Manordeilo. David Tom was taught his cobbling skills in Newcastle Emlyn. In 1902 he joined Rhys Thomas who had built Leicester House in Llangadog. Their chief work was making hobnailed boots for the local farmers. The uppers were prepared upstairs, then thrown downstairs where they were handsewn. Cip and pigskin (the toughest leather) kept the feet dry. The cobbler had to use a leather glove on the left hand since the thread was strong and unpleasant to the skin. The ‘horseshoes’ used on the base of the boots came from the two Llangadog smithies, William Meredith and Johnny Lewis. His son, Dennis, was born in 1920 in Gwestfa, Manordeilo and during the same year his father took over the business. The boy used to spend hours in the workshop watching the workers, and claims he learned to read ‘Rhodd Mam’ at the cobbler’s bench.

At fourteen years of age he was ready to leave school and start five years’ apprenticeship with his father. His first task was to take a shoe apart. His father went to serve a customer in the shop and in no time at all the shoe was in bits. “I had no idea how to put it all back together again!” However, his father was a good teacher and in no time at all had rebuilt the shoe. By this time there were another four cobblers also working for the firm.

From 1941 Mr Edwards served his time in the Air Force, fighting in the Middle East, North Africa and Europe. His closest friend was a specialist in window dressing and during free time the two would visit local towns and finding the local cobbler’s shop. He particularly recalled the skill of the Italian shoemakers and the fine leather used by them.

On his return to Llangadog in 1946 the workforce was down to three, and before long it was he and his father who ran the business. Wellingtons became the vogue, being waterproof up to the knee, light and so easy to wear. In 1950 Mr Edwards took over the business although his father still helped until his death in 1962 at the age of 80. Mr Edwards himself continued working almost up until his death. He continued to adapt to the needs of his customers: “Most of my work is glueing trainers that seem to fall apart rather easily.” He also repaired handbags and horse harnesses. He did not repair saddles since the skills and machinery were different. Similarly, he would not repair rock- climbing harnesses since specialist skills were needed to accomplish work of such responsibility.
(compiled by Llinos Thomas and Nicola Wrigley Year 6, as part of a school project, 1998. For pictures and more, visit Llangadog School website at www.ysgolccc.org.uk/gadog ) (opens in a new window)

Genuki Llangadog Page (opens in a new window)

Rebecca Riots
The distances between tollgates along the turnpike roads were short and the poor farmers and drovers would be caught many times as they travelled through the area or going to fetch lime from the limekilns up in the mountains – and again on the return journey.
Rebecca and her friends were active here too in their attempts to protest against the inustice of the tolls.Mention is made of a Rebecca meeting being held in Cefncwm yr Orllwyd, that is, Cefn Coed (by Cwmsawdde).
On the eighth of December, 1843 at Waunystradfeiris a report was made, “This was the fifth attack. The gate was broken and the windows of the newly rebuilt toll house were smashed.”
The investigator, Thomas Campbell Foster, refered to "secret night meetings in the hills around Llangadog."

(For more information, contact Bro Beca, St.Clare)

Llangadog - Now and Then
This is a separate web site compiled by Dr Mark Atkinson and is still under construction. It contains a series of photographs showing Llangadog at the beginning of the 21st century and a growing amount of historical data about the village. At present the historical data includes the 1841 and 1901 Census returns and the 1910 Valuation Office Survey complete with a contemporary map. Go to www.atkinsonm.demon.co.uk/llangadog